Jiye Gia Son, PhD, Founder of Keratin Nails is a Cohort 9 Alum and recipient of the Impact Innovation Award.
Immigrant Beginnings
I always knew that I was going to start a business but didn’t have a clue on what the business would provide or how I would get there. Immigrating to suburban Long Island, NY, I was exposed to entirely new surroundings from where I was born and raised, in Seoul, South Korea. From the moment I arrived at JFK airport, I stared at faces that looked completely different from mine and tried to grasp a language I didn’t understand. Fortunately, I was only ten years old and unlike my older teenage sister, I didn’t fully understand what was happening to feel nervous about the situation. So, I embraced what all ten-year-old kids are supposed to do – hopped on a yellow school bus and went to school as a fourth grader. I learned that kicking a ball during recess is a universal game that requires no speaking, showed off my long division skills during math class (that I had already learned in Korea), and attended English as a Second Language (ESL) class with my Spanish-speaking friends.
Learning from Life
By high school, I had assimilated into my American life. My sister and I started working at a nail salon to earn money and help our family. First, we started with pedicures. After many years, we graduated to manicures. I enjoyed the work, although some feet needed extra work which I still have nightmares about, especially cutting overgrown cuticles and ingrown toenails (sorry, TMI?). I loved creating nail art and practicing the white strokes of a French manicure on my coworkers during downtime. The women I worked with were Asian or Hispanic who were all first-generation immigrants from Korea, China, Nepal, Venezuela, and Mexico. They lived near Flushing, Queens and were picked up by a van each morning and driven to suburbia, Long Island for work. My high school level Spanish was good enough to have simple conversations about the ladies having sore legs after a late night of salsa dancing and share delicious arepas for breakfast that they brought from Queens. I ate curry and drank mango juice for lunch with Nepalese women who always asked me how my schooling was going. I continued working on weekends and full-time in summers to support myself through college and finally stopped working at nail salons during my first semester as a PhD student in the chemistry program at CUNY Graduate Center.
From Nail Salon to Chemistry Lab
Graduate school was so much fun. I loved creating new chemical structures that had never existed before and probing them with UV light and electron microscopes to find out what they looked like. My mentors and I filed a provisional patent on novel peptides I had created, which had a potential to be used as a drug-delivery vehicle for targeting metastatic cancer. We didn’t end up pursuing a full patent, but I was very excited at the idea of having my lab invention out in the real-world, being of good service to others. In 2019, I successfully defended my dissertation and became the Associate Director of the Nanoscience Initiative at CUNY Advanced Science Research Center. I fully embraced this opportunity to develop new courses and programs for PhD students to explore entrepreneurship outside academia. Secretly, I still aspired to be an entrepreneur myself, but I didn’t have a good idea about what my business could do for others.
My “A-Ha” Moment
One day, as I was doing my nails, like I have done for the past 20+ years, I was thinking about why my nails hurt when I removed polish. The subtle soreness in the nail bed was so common for my clients and myself that I had become accustomed to accepting it as part of the manicure process. But this time, I followed my curiosity and did a little research online. What I found was shocking: nail polish was invented in the 1920s and originally used as car paint. The main ingredients are nitrocellulose, aka gunpowder, dissolved in flammable chemical solvents, mixed with plasticizers, sticky resins, and coloring agents. Many of these chemicals are flammable, carcinogenic, and toxic for the reproductive system. According to the NYCOSH, 25% of nail technicians had complications during pregnancy, compared to 8% of the general population, and they are 3 times more likely to have babies born with birth defects. I know for sure that the common solvents used in nail salons would only be handled under a fume hood with proper PPE, if handled in a chemistry lab. I was baffled to find out that almost 100 years after the original nail polish formula was patented, and with the current state of advanced technology which can grow a salmon filet in the lab, we are basically still polishing our nails with car paint!
This was the start of my social venture: realizing a problem through my personal experience and identifying with the hardworking, first-generation immigrant women in nail salons, who were my first group of coworkers.
Building Keratin Nails
With the support of many knowledgeable mentors and programs like Communitas America (shoutout to the changemakers in cohort 9!), I steadily grew the confidence and courage to launch Keratin Nails LLC in November 2022. Keratin Nails will use peptides, like the ones I developed during my PhD, to create a nail polish that is safe for the end users and the nail technicians. Our natural nails are made up of peptides called keratin, and it makes more sense to use the same building block for our nail polish, than to use gunpowder, don’t you think? This will also eliminate the use of 6 M gallons of petrochemical solvents used in nail polish annually, which contribute to formation of smog and pollute groundwater. I am excited and grateful to have this opportunity to combine my lived experience with my scientific training and create a venture that can disrupt the $15B global nail polish industry and develop a solution for my community, from nail technicians to every person who wears nail polish.
So, if you’re like me and you are looking for a good idea, study the challenges in your own experiences and in your own communities, follow your curiosity, and question the status quo.
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